Buy Rigid Collodion
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Rigid collodion is a cheap and effective way to produce scarring. The brand I generally use is Mehron. Collodion is applied straight to the skin and then it gently constricts as it dries, tightening the surrounding skin, producing an indented scar. It can be applied to clean skin, or over a colour depending on the desired effect.
Rigid collodion is used to create the illusion of both old and new scars, scarred tissue and wounds on the skin. It is also known by the nickname scarring liquid.When it is applied to the skin and is drying it will shrink and form fake scars. After the first layer is dry you can repeat the process for better effect and more times after that to get to the desired look. Be careful when removing it from the skin, is it best to use rigid collodion remover or mastix remover if available.
Mehron Rigid Collodion is used to simulate scars in theatrical and special effects applications. Simply apply to skin, and as the collodion dries, it puckers the skin for realistic scarring effects. .125 oz
Collodion is a flammable, syrupy solution of nitrocellulose in ether and alcohol. There are two basic types: flexible and non-flexible. The flexible type is often used as a surgical dressing or to hold dressings in place. When painted on the skin, collodion dries to form a flexible nitrocellulose film. While it is initially colorless, it discolors over time. Non-flexible collodion is often used in theatrical make-up. Collodion was also the basis of most wet-plate photography until it was superseded by modern gelatin emulsions.
In 1846 Louis-Nicolas Ménard and Florès Domonte discovered that cellulose nitrate could be dissolved in ether.[1] They devised a mixture of ether (ethoxyethane) as the solvent and ethanol as a diluent that rendered cellulose nitrate into a clear gelatinous liquid. Collodion was first used medically as a dressing in 1847 by the Boston physician John Parker Maynard.[2][3] The solution was dubbed \"collodion\" (from the Greek κολλώδης (kollodis), gluey) by Dr. A.A. Gould of Boston, Massachusetts.[4]
In 1851, Frederick Scott Archer, an Englishman, discovered that collodion could be used as an alternative to egg white (albumen) on glass photographic plates.[5] Collodion reduced the exposure time necessary for making an image. This method became known as the 'wet-plate collodion' or 'wet collodion' method. Collodion was relatively grainless and colorless, and allowed for one of the first high-quality duplication processes, also known as negatives. This process also produced two types of positives: the ambrotype and the tintype (also known as ferrotype).
Richard Hill Norris, a doctor of medicine and professor of physiology at Queen's College, Birmingham (a predecessor college of Birmingham University),[6] is generally credited with the first development of dry collodion plate when in 1856 he took out a new patent for a dry plate used in photography in which the emulsion was coated with gelatine or gum arabic to preserve its sensitivity. Another method, using tannin, invented by Major C. Russell in 1861, followed and in 1864 W.E. Bolton and E.J. Sayce mixed silver bromide with collodion, so that by the mid-1860s the wet-plate process was being replaced.[7]
Rigid Collodion is perfect for creating scars especially for beginers all you do is apply the collodion on to skin and let dry and it does the work for you all you need to do is paint in the scar and you are Clear for take off!
1. Rigid collodion dried almost instantly. It definitely attacks paint, rubber, plastic quite aggressively (it is nitrocellulose mixed with highly volatile solvents). It adhered well - TOO well - to glass. I managed to get it off, but never in one single sheet. This could be very problematic. The longer I left it , the more adherent it became. It removed the oily thumbprint entirely, and lifted ALL the dirt and crud.
3. Nitrocellulose dope - same stuff used in old aircraft manufacture and with tissue and balsa model aircraft. Almost same constituents as collodion, but uses acetone and xylene as solvents, so same cautions as above. Dried fairly quickly, though dried solid as a rock, almost impossible to remove without redissolving it, which negates the purpose! Sure did remove ALL oil though - no surprise.
I've used flexible collodion, worked pretty well, helps a lot to incorporate a layer of gauze into it to make removal easier. Little bits tend to still get stuck at the edge of the glass, touch with a piece of scotch tape to remove these. Other than potentially rendering you unconscious or exploding into flames it's pretty safe stuff. 59ce067264